Batik is both an art and a craft, which is becoming more popular and well known in the West as a wonderfully creative medium. Batik is a traditional Indonesian technique of wax-resist dyeing applied to the whole cloth.
History
Wax resist dyeing of fabric is an ancient art form. Even though its exact history is uncertain, parts of batik’s origin dates back to the 4th century in Eygpt where it was used to wrap mummies. There is also sufficient evidence to suggest that batik has been found all over the Middle East, in India, Central Asia and Africa way back in the 1st century.
In China, during the Tang Dynasty (618-907AD), the technique of soaking linen in wax and then scratched using a stylus was practised. This was also practised in India and Japan during the Nara period (645-794AD). In Africa, it was originally practised by the Yoruba tribe in Nigeria, Soninke and Wolof in Senegal. The difference is that the African version uses cassava starch or rice paste or mud as the dye-resist instead of beeswax.
Batik became a highly accomplished art form in Java and Bali in Indonesia by the 19th century after it was exported to Europe. Motifs, patterns and colours were developed and designed to identify family, social status and geographic origin. It was felt that batik was originally reserved for Javanese royalty on the island and possibly a pass time for princesses and noble ladies of the time.
Technique
The word batik originates from the Javanese word ‘ambatik’ which means cloth with tiny dots. To make a batik, selected areas of the cloth are blocked out by brushing or drawing hot wax over them, and the cloth is then dyed. The parts covered in wax resists the dye and remain in the original colour. This process is repeated to create elaborate and colourful designs. After the final dyeing, the wax is removed and the cloth is ready and can used for making clothes, shawls, bags and others accessories.
This method is both time consuming and costly which is why most original batik are very expensive. The more intricate the design, the higher is the cost.
Cultural Effect on Batik
The batik patterns itself are very symbolic. In Indonesia, infants are carried in batik slings decorated with symbols designed to bring good luck to the child. Brides and bridegrooms and their families have different designs which are reserved for the occasion. During the colonial era, certain patterns are worn according to a person’s rank and class within the society.
Batik popularity has spread to Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, India and even China. The techniques used in each country are slightly different and the batik patterns differ for each different country. For example, the phoenix and dragon are prominent in the Chinese batik designs whereas the elephant is prominent in the Indian batik designs.
Usage of Batik
Batik is also commonly used as a replacement for suits in official functions especially in countries which are humid and hot and a 3-piece suit is not suitable to the weather. In the Asian countries, you will find many men opting for batik shirts for wedding dinners and official functions. In fact, three airlines, Singapore Airlines, Garuda Indonesia and Malaysian Airlines have chosen batik prints as their national airline uniform for the flight attendants.
More information about the history of batik can be found here.